At Old Northeast Jewelers, we are students of Tiffany, their history and unmistakable style. Tiffany has a long tradition of making men’s rings but ironically, it was a former president of Tiffany, Walter Hoving, who nearly ended that tradition in the 1960s when he famously said men wearing rings (other than wedding bands) were “vulgar.” That single remark put a damper on Tiffany’s own sales of men’s jewelry. An odd twist but if you read up on Hoving he was an odd duck. (A dynamic duck, but still.)
This week, since men once again are wearing rings and brooches, we’re showcasing three vintage Tiffany men’s rings from the 20th century. One fully intact, while two are in need of careful restoration. Each tells a story—and together, they reflect Tiffany’s consistent leadership in design.
First (top) is a late 20th-century piece by Jean Schlumberger. (Interestingly, it was Hoving who brought Schlumberger to Tiffany.) A huge size 12 boasting a vivid, natural ruby of the coveted “pigeon blood” color. Thanks to its excellent condition, we paid over $3,000 for it and expect to offer it for under $4,500—while its original retail “back in the day” price was over $9,000!
The second ring is a heavy mid-century modern piece signed Tiffany Paris, circa 1960. It once held a cabochon-cut jadeite jade, lost by its previous owner. We acquired it for just over gold value—around $1,200—and plan to replace the stone with a Tiffany-grade jade cabochon. We always disclose restorations; a modified piece, no matter how carefully done, should never be sold as entirely original.
The third is the most dramatic—and the most heartbreaking. Likely the finest Tiffany men’s ring we’ve ever owned, it originally featured an extraordinary black opal—one of the most vibrant we’ve seen. Unfortunately, the opal is damaged beyond repair. Still, the Art Nouveau setting is a marvel of early 20th-century craftsmanship deserving of a second life with a new stone. Again, disclosure will accompany restoration.
We love this trio. Together, they highlight Tiffany’s evolving artistry and enduring influence in men’s jewelry from 1915 to the 1990s. Please show us your Tiffany items. Anything signed Tiffany is of interest to us!
